2004 Finca Allende Aurus 3Lt
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Aurus is the flagship of Finca Allende and one of the defining wines of modern Rioja, produced only in the vintages Miguel Ángel de Gregorio judges worthy of the name. In this rare 3-liter double magnum, the 2004 gains an even slower evolutionary arc, making a statement format of a statement year, from a vintage widely counted among the region's finest of the decade.
Finca Allende was founded in 1995 in the hilltop village of Briones, in the Rioja Alta rather than the neighboring Rioja Alavesa, and it became a standard-bearer for terroir thinking in a region long dominated by blending across zones. De Gregorio, who grew up at Marqués de Murrieta where his father was cellarmaster, insists on wines that speak of single villages and old parcels. The bodega occupies a restored historic manor in the village, a fitting home for a project so rooted in place.
The blend is 85% Tempranillo and 15% Graciano drawn from roughly sixty-year-old vines around Briones, farmed at tiny yields and picked by hand. Fermentation takes place in barrel, followed by around twenty-four months in new French oak, a regime the old-vine fruit absorbs with ease. The result layers black cherry and mulberry with graphite, mocha, incense and fine-grained spice.
Two decades on, and cushioned by the large format, the 2004 sits in a beautiful middle age: still deep in fruit, yet fanning out into cigar wrapper and cocoa complexity. Decant an hour ahead for younger-feeling bottles from this size, and expect a first-rank Rioja drinking superbly now and holding comfortably through 2034 in good cellars. Count on roughly forty pours from this format, which makes it ideal for milestone celebrations.
- Size: 3L (Double Magnum)
- ABV: ABV varies
- Vintage: 2004
- Origin: Briones, Rioja Alta, DOCa Rioja, Spain
- Winery: Finca Allende
- Grape/Blend: 85% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano
- Vineyard: Old-vine parcels around Briones, about 60 years old
- Aging/Élevage: Barrel fermented; about 24 months in new French oak
- Tasting Notes: Black cherry, graphite, mocha, incense
- Drink Window: Now through 2034
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