2017 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Alte Reben Riesling Grosses Gewachs 750ml
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Grosses Gewächs is the German answer to grand cru: legally dry wine from the finest classified vineyards, and no one has championed the dry Mosel cause more energetically than Ernst Loosen. His Alte Reben bottlings argue that the region's steep slate slopes, long famous for delicate sweet styles, can produce dry Rieslings of world rank when old vines and low yields do the talking. In the VDP's vineyard pyramid these wines stand at the very top, the white-wine equivalent of a Burgundian grand cru bottling.
Graacher Himmelreich, the 'kingdom of heaven' above the village of Graach, is a steep blue-slate amphitheater whose slightly deeper, water-retaining soils set it apart from its neighbors. That reserve of moisture tempers hot years and gives Himmelreich wines a cool, juicy elegance, here expressed as yellow apple, lime blossom, herbs, and a streak of smoky slate running through a compact dry palate. Of Loosen's grand cru holdings, Himmelreich is often the most immediately giving in its youth.
The 2017 season demanded resilience, with spring frost slashing Mosel yields sharply and an early harvest preserving zesty intensity in what remained. Loosen's ungrafted old vines, farmed without chemical shortcuts, weathered the year with characteristic depth. In the cellar the wine fermented spontaneously and rested on its full lees in traditional oak cask for an extended élevage, gaining breadth without losing cut.
Drink this GG with pork schnitzel, roast poultry, trout with brown butter, or Alpine cheeses. It is entering a lovely early-maturity phase and will reward cellaring through 2032, gaining honeyed and stony nuance each year. A brief decant sharpens its focus, and a large-bowled glass rewards its slate-smoke perfume.
- Size: 750ml
- ABV: ABV varies
- Vintage: 2017
- Origin: Mosel, Germany
- Winery: Weingut Dr. Loosen
- Grape/Blend: Riesling, dry (Grosses Gewächs)
- Vineyard: Graacher Himmelreich, blue slate
- Aging/Élevage: Spontaneous ferment, full lees in oak cask
- Tasting Notes: Yellow apple, lime blossom, smoky slate
- Drink Window: Now through 2032
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